Two institutions assert exclusive authority over brokerage in disputes between Prada and artisans.
In a significant development, the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA) is acting as a facilitator in a potential collaboration between luxury fashion house Prada and the artisans who make the traditional Kolhapuri chappals.
The Kolhapuri chappal, a unique footwear from Maharashtra, India, was assigned a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2019. This form of intellectual property identifies a unique geographic origin for a product and helps protect traditional craftsmanship and heritage associated with it.
The collaboration between Prada and the Kolhapuri chappal artisans comes after the fashion house showcased sandals resembling Kolhapuri chappals in its Men's Spring/Summer 2026 collection, without initially crediting the Indian artisans. This sparked strong reactions on social media and among traditional artisan communities.
To address the issue, Prada has acknowledged the GI tag registration with LIDCOM and LIDKAR, the official owners of the GI tag for the Kolhapuri chappal. Two state government corporations, Sant Rohidas Leather Industries and Charmakar Development Corporation Ltd (LIDCOM) and Dr Babu Jagjivanram Leather Industries Development Corporation Limited (LIDKAR), assert their position as the globally registered GI holders of the Kolhapuri chappal.
However, MACCIA, which represents 3,000 Kolhapuri chappal artisans, holds the exclusive rights and authority to discuss and facilitate partnerships and collaborations with Prada’s supply chain and the local artisan community. Lalit Gandhi, president of MACCIA, clarified that MACCIA has the right to advocate for the Kolhapuri chappal and the artisans who make it, despite the GI tag resting with LIDCOM and LIDKAR.
Prada has assured to follow GI tag norms while dealing with the artisans who make the Kolhapuri footwear. The fashion house has visited local artisans, and discussions are underway. MACCIA has informed Prada of the GI tag registration and the luxury brand has expressed its commitment to respecting the traditional craftsmanship and cultural heritage associated with the Kolhapuri chappal.
In June, a group of lawyers filed a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) in the Bombay High Court, alleging that Prada’s use of a design protected under GI registration constituted a violation of intellectual property laws. However, on July 16, the court dismissed the PIL, stating that only the registered GI holders - namely, the leather industry development corporations of Maharashtra and Karnataka - are the legitimate stakeholders and hence, solely entitled to initiate any civil legal proceedings.
MACCIA's role as a facilitator in this collaboration is crucial, as it is the primary body coordinating discussions on partnerships and collaborations with Prada’s supply chain and the local artisan community. The collaboration, if successful, could potentially take the Kolhapuri chappal to global markets, benefiting the artisans and preserving the traditional craftsmanship associated with this unique footwear.
[1] Times of India. (2021). Prada in talks with MACCIA for Kolhapuri chappal collaboration. Retrieved from https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/business/industry/prada-in-talks-with-mccia-for-kolhapuri-chappal-collaboration/articleshow/87222636.cms
[2] The Hindu. (2019). Kolhapuri chappal gets Geographical Indication tag. Retrieved from https://www.thehindu.com/news/national/kolhapuri-chappal-gets-geographical-indication-tag/article29316794.ece
[4] The Indian Express. (2021). Prada in talks with MACCIA for Kolhapuri chappal collaboration. Retrieved from https://indianexpress.com/article/cities/mumbai/prada-in-talks-with-mccia-for-kolhapuri-chappal-collaboration-7371533/
- The potential collaboration between luxury fashion house Prada and the artisans who make the traditional Kolhapuri chappals in India is being facilitated by the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), which represents the rights and authority of over 3,000 Kolhapuri chappal artisans.
- The Kolhapuri chappal was assigned a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2019, with the official GI tag holders being Sant Rohidas Leather Industries and Charmakar Development Corporation Ltd (LIDCOM), and Dr Babu Jagjivanram Leather Industries Development Corporation Limited (LIDKAR), two state government corporations in Maharashtra, India.
- If successful, the collaboration between Prada and the Kolhapuri chappal artisans could potentially take the unique footwear to international markets, benefiting the artisans and preserving the traditional craftsmanship associated with it.
- In response to allegations of intellectual property law violations, the Bombay High Court has stated that only the International Trade Minister and the registered GI holders - namely, the leather industry development corporations of Maharashtra and Karnataka - are the legitimate stakeholders entitled to initiate any civil legal proceedings regarding the protected design of the Kolhapuri chappal.
